During the consultation, the makeup artist should first find out what the client's makeup personality is. Look at their makeup personality! Sometimes a client will come in with their makeup already applied, which can give the makeup artist an idea of any pronounced makeup preference. Queues can be noticed with the client's current makeup application as to whether their makeup personality is more natural, adventurous, or glamorous! However, sometimes the makeup artist will need to make their own evaluations based on the following questions:
- How much time does the client have each morning to apply makeup?
- What brand of makeup is the client currently purchasing?
- What is the client's makeup or skin concerns (acne, rosacea, hyperpigmentation, and so on)?
Without knowing the answers to these questions, the makeup artist is simply doing what they personally feel is the best solution. Asking these specific questions can often help determine what the client is looking for.
How are different looks created for each client? Where do should the makeup artist begin? I like to start with what "look" the client is imagining or requesting, while also considering what is best for their age or style. By separating clients into three different age groups – young, middle, and mature – a makeup artist will be able to more easily provide the client a cohesive and stylish makeup look.
THE THREE AGE GROUPS
First, let us start with the youngest age group. Young looks can often be very natural or more dramatic, depending on whether it is day
Daytime/Natural Looks: For a natural, daytime look, a pressed or loose powder can be applied as a foundation, accompanied by a nude blush on the client's cheekbones and eyes. This look should be accented with a natural gloss and mascara. This look can be achieved in approximately five minutes, which is a perfect time frame for young women on the go.
Night/Glamour Looks: For a more dramatic look with the young clientele, the makeup artists should start with a great concealer under the eyes. Any imperfections (such as acne or hyperpigmentation) should be touched up with concealer by using a tapping motion (also called stippling). Next, liquid foundation should be applied for added coverage. By working one section of the face at a time, the liquid foundation can be layered to get the desired coverage. After the concealer has been stippled, it is important to remember to stipple the liquid foundation on top so that the concealer does not come off. Depending on what finishing look is desired by the client, pressed or loose powder should then be applied. Pressed powder will give the client a matte look, while loose powder will give a more luminescent look to the skin. The perfect canvas has now been created and it is time to add color to the client's eyes. Young eyes do not have the challenges of more mature eyes, so anything goes when it comes to applying color to the eyes of young clients – from bright, vivid colors to dark eyeliners!
Middle Age Clients
Depending on the look (natural or glamorous) the client is looking to achieve, makeup application is not very different than the approach taken on a young face, with a few exceptions.
The first exception is with the eyes. Eye colors need to be toned down a bit with this age group. Also, eyeliners should not be as thick or be applied completely around the eye (the only exception is with larger eyes, as the eyeliner can go completely around the eye). At this age, we begin to see the end of the eye drooping a bit and the eyebrows starting to lose definition. Darker eyeshadow shades should be used on the outer corner of the eye and color should always sweep up at the end of the eye. This will give the illusion of the client's eyes coming up and out at the outer corner.
When it comes to the lip color of the middle age clients, it needs to have just enough color while not being too vivid. Sometimes too natural of a lip color does not brighten the client's face enough or show up well in photographs. The client's eyebrows need to be groomed and uniquely shaped to fit their eyes. To attain a more youthful look, the finish should be kept a bit dewy for normal-to-dry skin. With this approach, the client's skin will show off some radiance.
Mature faces typically show droopier eyes, smaller lips with less definition, and faded eyebrows; however, there are many great makeup illusions that can help pronounce the client's cheekbones, slenderize the nose, and contour the jaw line. Keep in mind that whenever the client's face is being contoured, it must always be highlighted as well. This will keep balance to the client's face. Any colors used on the client should be colors that complement their face, but the blush application should be more on the minimal side and the eyes should be kept subtle with some glamour to compliment the face. A dewy finish will make the face look youthful. Also, eyebrows are an important component to framing the face and clients should be encouraged to have their eyebrows professionally shaped or consider a permanent solution.
The term "age appropriate" is not a term that should be used because no matter what a client's age, there are variations that work best for everyone. By understanding what the client's individual makeup preferences are, the makeup artist should be able to provide each client with a makeup look that is sure to impress!
Annie Mayo is a former salon owner and aesthetician, having spent many years honing her skills in all aspects of hair, skin, and makeup. Eventually she made the progression to television, film, and print as a makeup artist. Some of her work in the field of makeup includes over 25 feature films, countless print advertisements, the Miss Universe Pageant, and major sporting events such as the Super Bowl and the World Series. She also hosted a morning television segment on Fox News called "The Makeup Doctor." She developed Advanced Mineral Makeup, a line of natural mineral makeup and cosmetics. www.advancedmineralmakeup.com