Sensitive skin care is an important topic for the professional aesthetician. Why? Because sensitive skin is very common in today’s population plus it is a condition that can be quite challenging to recognize and treat. For example, some people do not care for their skin properly or use harsh products. Usually, this results in some sort of irritation or dryness that leads individuals to think that they have sensitive skin. So then, what is sensitive skin? This condition is difficult to define. However, in general terms, sensitive skin can be defined as skin that is easily irritated and the results can range from mild to severe. How do you know if a client has sensitive skin and requires sensitive skin care? Difficult question to answer. In fact, licensed professionals often have difficulty recognizing and treating this condition. Nevertheless, there are common signs or symptoms that lead one to conclude that they have sensitive skin. Once it has been established that your client’s skin is sensitive, the next step is to manage it. Unfortunately, many individuals get very frustrated with this problem. This article will go deeper into sensitive skin issues and address individuals who have skin reactions with only minor exposure to some sort of irritant.

Sensitive skin manifests as erythema (redness) and edema (swelling) from a range of reactions based on the skin’s own chemical components or from a chemical that comes in contact with the skin. About 40 to 56 percent of Americans suffer from sensitive skin. This can include redness, tightness and stinging, flushing or irritation of the skin, peeling, swelling, rashes or acne. These symptoms may be caused by an environmental factor or genetic predisposition. Sensitive skin can begin from birth and can continue throughout the years, even for the elderly. Redness can occur quickly and last minutes, can come and go in cycles, or may become permanent. Repeated stress and inflammatory reactions can be the cause of a persistent chronic condition.

Skin allergies are usually found in people with dry skin (lack of sebum production). The reason for this is that the damaged skin can be penetrated more easily when it is dry and has difficulty blocking allergens due to an impaired barrier function. The lipid barrier consists of fatty substances that help form the skins protective barrier. The lipid barrier is located in the stratum corneum. Beneath the stratum corneum, the lipids in the intercellular spaces are also responsible for the barrier function of skin. They protect skin cells from moisture loss and supply a fresh source of lipids to the lipid barrier in the stratum corneum. A compromise of lipid barrier function can result in:

Alex Cosmetic’s Herbal BB Cream is a special tinted moisturizer designed for red, irritated, blemished and problem skin to calm, protect and restore normal skin functions while moisturizing and keeping the skin healthy. 877-313-ALEX, alex-cosmeticusa, or CRR# 103	Sensitive Skin Cleanser is an extra gentle cleanser with complexion-calming oils from Bioelements that melts away makeup, pollutants and excess sebum without any irritating side effects, leaving sensitive skin soft, comfortable and sparkly clean. 800-433-6650 or bioelements	Dr. med. Christine Schrammek’s Sensiderm Stress Protect Cream is effective but mild. This extra emollient, calming skin cream was developed for everyone with dry and sensitive skin that reacts quickly to external irritants due to a low tolerance threshold. The formula contains no irritating and unnecessary additives and is a rich, emollient SOS cream for calming extremely sensitive, reddened and dry skin. schrammek.de, greenpeel.usa, or CRR# 273	ULTRA SENSITIVE from DR. GRANDEL, this line was created with maximum skin tolerance, minimum allergy potential and effectiveness in mind. In order to achieve this, the products contain no fragrances, colorants or preservatives, and they are also free of silicones and paraffins. 866-693-7006 (W); 888-266-0820 (SW); 888-845-1191 (MW& SE); 877-374-4772 (NE); 800-561-3766 (Canada); grandel; or CRR# 178	Primrose & Melon Balancing Masque from Éminence Organic Skin Care is a hydrating, calming and regenerating gel face mask for dehydrated, irritated and sensitive skin. The calming extracts of marigold, primrose and jojoba oils contain essential unsaturated fatty acids that aid in skin regeneration while watermelon nourishes and balances the skin leaving it feeling toned and firmed. 888-747-6342, eminenc-eorganics, or CRR# 165

1. Increase of moisture loss leading to dry, scaly or cracked skin.
   
2. Further damage occurring with moisture loss in skin cells in the lower layers of the epidermis. The health of the cell is affected because dehydrated cells function poorly. The immune system of the skin eventually becomes weakened.
   
3. Finally, the risk of infection or the incidence of other skin diseases increases. Secondary effects of gaps in the lipid barrier can show up as bacteria-related acne, eczema, rosacea-type inflammation, atopic dermatitis and skin congestion among other problems.

Environmental changes can make dealing with sensitive skin worse. Changes in the seasons can have serious effects on the skin. When the temperatures get cold during the winter, it can take the moisture out of the skin. This can cause the skin to get itchy and crack, which can be painful. High humidity can cause the body to sweat more and heat up faster. Once this happens, the skin can become red, blotchy and irritated. Humidifiers and dehumidifiers can help in keeping the moisture in and out of the air as the seasons change. Too much sun exposure can also make the skin dry, irritated and sunburned. It is important to wear sunscreen when being exposed to the sun and to moisturize after sun exposure.

Food allergies may cause the skin to break out in hives. Avoiding these foods is the best way to stop symptoms from occurring. It may also be helpful to read the ingredients of packaged foods. A lack of B complex vitamins can also create skin sensitivity. Eating foods such as whole grains, wheat germ, oatmeal, fish, egg and almonds can help.

Cosmetic sensitivity can usually be attributed to fragrances and preservatives. Sensitive skin types should be cautious of products that contain fragrances. These individuals will need to invest in natural based products that contain natural preservatives and fragrances. It is wise to read the labels of cosmetic products to know what is topically and internally going into the skin. Always begin a new product by testing only a small area of skin surface at a time, and gradually increase the amount applied as skin seems to tolerate the new preparation to avoid provoking sensitive nerve endings. An example of sensitive nerve endings is when the individual tries on a new cream and almost instantly gets a powerful stinging reaction. If you notice any problems on your skin (i.e. flakiness or redness), switch to a different product.

Avoid products that contain chemical petroleum by products, parabens, mineral oil, sodium lauryl sulfate, phthalates, artificial dyes, synthetic fragrances or creams that contain alcohol. Natural ingredients are easily absorbed and less likely to irritate sensitive skin.

The complete system, UltraCalming™, from dermalogica®, helps manage the multiple causes behind sensitized, inflamed skin, which can stem from a genetic predisposition towards sensitivity or as result from environmental assaults. 310-900-4040, dermalogica, or CRR# 106	Sensi Peel® from PCA skin® contains 12% lactic acid and 6% TCA, along with kojic, ascorbic and azelaic acids, and a host of anti-inflammatory ingredients, making it safe for use on all Fitzpatrick skin types and sensitivity levels. 877-722-7546, pcaskin, or CRR# 199	Sensitive skin's winter defense – The EVADO™ uses optimal wavelengths proven effective in alleviating many conditions that agitate sensitive skin: rosacea, acne, and aging skin. Patented focused light increases circulation; providing gentle, immediate relief by reducing redness, swelling and skin discoloration. 877-218-1928, myevado, or CRR# 272	Dynamis’ MEG 21 Anti-Oxidant Boost with Supplamine® combines the powers of Supplamine®, Indian gooseberry and grape seed extract to provide the ultimate therapy your skin cells need to fight glycation, free radicals, and oxidative stress. With the added antioxidant boost, this silky, light-weight treatment will reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and give your client’s complexion a youthful, radiant glow. 877-682-7949, meg21, or CRR# 203	Diffuse skin redness with the Institut’ DERMed™ Soothing Mask which was designed for sensitive skin, this non- irritating peeling mask remarkably restores and calms irritated skin with a unique blend of gentle smoothers to free dull, lifeless skin cells for a healthy complexion. Rejuvenate your sensitive skin by removing that summer dead cell build-up and reveal hydrated skin cells for fall. 770-454-7788, idermed, or CRR# 162

Products containing these ingredients are effective in the treatment of sensitive skin:

• Licorice root extract – anti-inflammatory and antioxidant.
  
• Shea butter – derived from the seed or nut of the karite tree, contains numerous fatty acids and triglycerides rich in natural tocopherol (vitamin E) antioxidants to soften and moisturize skin.
  
• Willow herb – a natural alternative to hydrocortisone to reduce inflammation, irritation and propionibacterium.
  
• Totarol – a potent anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory derived from the totara tree in New Zealand is a gentle alternative to benzyl peroxide.
  
• Hydrocortisone – an anti-inflammatory cortico-steroid is very effective in managing flare ups of itching, redness and skin irritation.
  
• Pumpkin seed oil – an antioxidant rich in zinc, magnesium, iron phosphorate ferulic and alpha-linolenic acid and vitamin A to aid in the skins natural
  healing processes.
  
• Enzymes – are capable of effecting changes in the appearance of the skin such as releasing dead skin cells to decongest clogged pores and soften wrinkles. They also act as protectants, capturing free radicals preventing damage to the skin caused by environmental pollution, smoking, bacteria, sunlight and other harmful factors.
  
• Chamomile – is soothing, anti-inflammatory and used for wound healing and lightening.
  
• Saponaria extracts – also known as soapworts, are cultivated for their attractive flowers; they grow freely in any soil and under most conditions. The crushed leaves have been used as soap since the Renaissance. Its naturally-foaming action removes impurities and excess oils without affecting even the most hyper sensitive of skin.

S.O.S. D-Sensitizing Serum from Germaine de Capuccini is the definitive solution for the most sensitive skin prone to react. An almost magical soothing formula thanks to the incorporation of Defensitive Complex, an exclusive complex of plant origin with valuable anti-oxidizing and restructuring properties to immediately alleviate the symptoms of irritation and discomfort. 888-477-1477 (S and W); 800-842-9922 (NE and MW); germaine-de-capuccini; or CRR# 111	jane iredale’s PurePressed Base is a pressed mineral foundation that provides a semi-matte finish. The superior, yet weightless coverage offers unsurpassed skin care benefits and SPF 20. Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are naturally anti- inflammatory and extracts of sea minerals soothe and nourish the skin. 800-762-1132 or janeiredale	The creamy and gently alleviating, Sensitive Skin Mask from pevonia® BOTANICA immediately calms the skin with a select combination of zinc oxide and shea butter. These ingredients harmoniously blend with other key agents to diffuse redness and soothe irritation for a calm, smooth appearance. 800-PEVONIA, pevonia, or CRR# 278	Australian-based Thursday Plantation offers a comprehensive Tea Tree Collection of personal and essential care products. Tea tree oil has long been considered a panacea for all that ails and has been used to aid in the treatment of psoriasis, sores, eczema and rashes and also everyday problems such as cuts, stings, burns, pimples and vaginal infections making this collection a good range for sensitive skin. thursday-plantation	Rhonda Allison® Clinical Enterprises’ Drop of Essence Hydration Drops delivers a potent dose of omega 6 essential fatty acids to hydrate the skin and support a youthful appearance. It quickly penetrates the skin barrier providing hydration, skin tissue support, and anti- inflammatory, antioxidant and healing properties. 866-313-SKIN, rhonda- allison, or CRR# 222

Living with sensitive skin can be difficult, but there are treatments and products available for most causes of sensitive skin. There have been major breakthroughs in recent years when it comes to what sensitive skin can be exposed to and through proper skin analysis and consultation professionals can recommend treatments and products that can benefit your client’s skin.

Lyn Ross, president and founder of the Atlanta-based Institut'ť DERMed, is a Georgia-Board Certified master aesthetician, entrepreneur and an innovator. Utilizing 23 years in skin care as a trainer and teacher, Ross has combined educational opportunities, approaches and products to create a unique MediClinical skin care salon that continues to set trends in beauty and fitness industries. Two Atlanta locations, a teaching institute, and an emerging franchise later, she is now offering clients a full range of skin care services and a therapeutic line of cosmeceuticals that contain the highest concentration of active ingredients available without prescriptions. In Fall 2001, Ross renamed her spas Institut' DERMed, formerly known as Dermess, to reflect the importance she places on educating clients and her staff. This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it

	Sanítas Skincare’s gentle and soap-free Sensitive Skin Cleanser is formulated for irritated or sensitive skin. Perfect for rosacea, inflamed acne, reactive or allergenic skin, this cleanser will thoroughly remove dirt and impurities while providing extra hydration. 888-855-8425, sanitas-skincare, or CRR# 153	Limited Edition Lunar Dust Trio from Youngblood® Mineral Cosmetics contains three glow-rious shades of the much-loved Lunar Dust – in Twilight (luminescent white), Sunset (delicate pink) and Dusk (golden bronze). Each pot of Lunar Dust contains a light-reflective, finely-milled mineral powder; perfect for any skin type, especially sensitive skin. 800-216-6133 ybskin, or CRR# 295	Se-Brazil Coco Wax from Smooth Skin Supply is a low-temperature creamy Brazilian-style hard wax perfect for face and full body waxing especially sensitive areas. This wax will adhere to even the shortest hair without leaving a sticky residue on the skin. 877-473-1032, ssmoothskinsupply,or CRR# 234