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Written by Patti Pugliese, L.E.
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 The notion of selling skin care to men was something that appealed to me when I started in the cosmetic business in the mid '80s. At that time, the industry marketing focus mostly came from the fragrance sector and seemed to indicate that every man wanted to be a cowboy. I'm glad we have moved on from that.
Men's Skin Care, if we were to capitalize it as a category (and capitalize on it), has been talked about for decades but has never been really well-defined. I wrote about this myself at the very beginning of my career in a trade magazine called Drug and Cosmetic Industry, (March of 1986), when I said, "If women can be taught to buy their own cars, men can be induced to wash and moisturize their faces – if they are given products that neither feminize nor patronize them. To promote a skin care product, performance and not image seems more important; since it's really up to the man to decide on his image. He does need to be reminded that good skin looks better on everyone … if the product works and the advertising is non-offensive, a man will use the product, and buy it himself." This was 25 years ago.
The Language of Gender
There was a funny word we used long ago, "Unisex," to describe products that could be used by both men and women. A smattering of gender-blending terms has since come into use, such as "metrosexual," which attempts to describe men who are open to caring for their overall appearance beyond a shave. The companies that willingly serve metrosexuals, as well as everyone who is openly or privately gay, are typically boutiques or tiny divisions of monster companies like Estee Lauder. From the beginning, Lauder's natural son Aramis marketed fragrance-themed shaving creams and soothing balms to men. This has continued through her alphabet of acquired stepchildren; from Aveda on, Lauder has always made room for the boys. That said, it still seems that a group of marketing people who never leave New York keep making up profiles, and thus products, for men who also never leave New York. But it is a big country, with a whole lot of men being left in the dust. Literally.
What brought me to this whole category of manly men and their skin care concerns was actually my father's patient population. In our community, my dad served as the family doctor to a salt-of-the-earth population in rural Pennsylvania. These were farmers, bricklayers, electricians, plumbers, carpenters and laborers in steel factories. These guys would rather have cracks in their hands you could stand a matchbook up in than be caught dead at the department store buying skin lotions.
The skin does not know the difference between a wrinkle and a wound. It is an abnormality, recognized by the body, without distinction. We know that the body always wants to survive, and God in His wisdom built miraculous mechanisms into our bodies to defend against many outside attacks from the environment. That is why we have an immune system. We have certainly done much in our modern society to compromise these systems with stress, cigarettes, chemicals and a fascination with having tanned skin – except for those who were actually born with dark skin, who vigorously use chemicals to lighten it. Go figure.
A fascinating material landed in our lab one day and after a series of experiments, I developed a hand lotion that had no slime, no fragrance and would turn hamburger hands into human hands in 17 days. The active ingredient came from a by-product of the brewery process, an active part of the yeast cell wall that got thrown away until Dr. Pugliese determined it could do some very good things for wrinkled skin. The downside of using it in upscale facial skin care products was that the active material retained a trace of the yeasty yucky smell in formulation. The upside was that manly men loved it in a hand lotion – there are some places where smelling like old beer gets you in the door.
Small town girl that I was, I focused on my niche and did not attempt to go anywhere near the shiny cosmetics counters to try to sell a moisturizer, although it was exceptionally effective on smoothing fine lines. With Cornhuskers my only competitor, I honed my target – good men with bad hands – and I went to the source, beginning what I referred to as market research but which amounted to spending a great deal of time in bars with bloody-knuckled men. ("Really, Dad, I'm working!")
To care for a man's skin, in addition to their hands, these things must be considered of paramount importance.
The Sun
Men are not covered with asbestos. Sunscreen must be worn daily in a form that is comfortable to wear and use. It is decidedly not attractive to have your ears, nose and neck carved up before your grandchildren know you because you have been driving a tractor all day or throwing bricks around in the sun.
And the Bugs
It is not manly to eschew a bug repellent and then fall off a ladder in anaphylactic shock because a bee stung you. Regardless of how you feel about DEET, there are a number of products that direct bugs away from you. Find one and use it.
Shaving
This is actually one of the reasons why they say "Women get old. Men get character." Shaving exfoliates and stimulates the skin, and my father actually recommended that women shave once a month in his 1998 book Skin Sex and Longevity.
Razor burn is an unpleasant thing caused by two things: the condition of the skin under the beard, and the friction of the razor (the early disposables felt a lot like dragging a ragged clam shell over a sunburn). The early "bracer" products' response to irritated skin was to throw fragranced, mentholated alcohol on it! Be a man! Ouch!
When you know better, you do better, and here is cutting edge advice from a skin care insider. Michael Q. Pugliese, L.E., CEO of Circadia by Dr. Pugliese, recommends trying to shave without surfactants. He uses specially treated soybean oil, for two reasons. Some oil cleansers eliminate irritation caused by the use of the foamy surfactants found in shaving cream and the old soap-in-a-cup-with-a-brush. "Soybean oil gives a close, smooth finish with very little irritation. The oil has enzyme modulating peptides and alpha-reductase inhibitors," says Pugliese, "which can actually slow hair growth cycles and shaving can be done less frequently." Simply rinse the razor and dry it off between uses.
Baldness
Many men struggling with early hair loss find the pre-emptive strike of total baldness to be both liberating and fashion forward, and shave their heads. The same rules apply – use a shaving product that has very low irritation potential and of course, follow with a moisturizing sunscreen to protect this newly exposed area from the sun's harmful UVA and UVB rays, as neither melanoma nor pigmentation spots are viewed as fashion statements.
Feet: Funk and Fungus
Men have some seriously needy feet. They are prone to wearing a favorite pair of sneakers, boots or shoes, day after day. Industrial footwear can cause the skin to peel, not from dryness but from sweating. This gets trapped and creates bacteria until they take off the boots. Cracked heels and fungus are the main concerns, and require both treatment and prevention.
Dr. Leigh Hopkins, PharmD. R.Ph. of Renu Labs, says, "Everyone is susceptible to foot fungus. In fact, over 38 million people in the United States have some form of fungal problems. The dark, moist and warm environment present in most shoes can promote fungal growth. Aside from cosmetic discoloration, if left untreated it can lead to nail deformity and pain – especially when wearing boots or shoes. Nail fungus is often a chronic, reoccurring condition; create a safe treatment regimen that incorporates many different and independent strategies."
Stinky Feet Folklore That Works
One easy, at home remedy is as follows: Fill a dishpan with hot water and add six teabags. Soak the feet for about twenty minute, every day.
Pain
I am married to a man who refuses to acknowledge pain of any kind. I know if he says to me that he has pain, he is already six exits past when I would be hollering for a morphine drip. Any kind of job which requires a repeated motion using a set of muscles all day will create stress in that area. Posture is important for everything from sitting down to running a machine, to the more vigorous activity of climbing a pole, laying bricks or pouring molten steel. Lower back pain plagues many men and a salon that offers massage can be a wonderful advantage to men.
Mental Acuity
There is a diminished concentration that comes with an accumulation of untreated pain. If you have ever had a chronic headache, you know you are not the sharpest knife in the drawer … and might just inadvertently cut yourself ON the sharpest knife in the drawer because your mind is using all its tricks to keep you from focusing on that pain. Pain is a message. Do not ignore it.
Pain medicines vary in effectiveness, from aspirin to NSAIDS, and obviously prescription narcotics are not advised in the workplace. I am a fan of topical pain relief, particularly one that has a natural source. Essential oils like capsaicin, peppermint and eucalyptus can give an immediate and sustainable effect without causing any systemic involvement.
There are a number of imaging techniques available that can help you determine the level of damage a man has from sun exposure, vascular stress or improper use of products. A thorough history, your own skills of observation, coupled with the Fitzpatrick score and an honest conversation, will help you guide a course of treatment he can live with and benefit from using.
The first thing any of us who practice aesthetics needs to understand is this: Everyone who comes through your door is there for one reason. They want to feel better when they leave. It is never too late to help someone. Your challenge, and in fact your responsibility, is to give every man and woman a reason to come through your door in an environment of safety and confidence, to provide the care and products they need, and allow them to trust you enough to come back. Metrosexuals, cowboys, bloody knuckles and all.
Patti Pugliese, L.E., pioneered skin care in the workplace. Her Lineman's Lotion, for damaged hands was the first industrial topical safety item. She created the TV program Work at Wellness, Wellness at Work. The daughter of Dr. Peter Pugliese, and the mother of Circadia CEO Michael Q. Pugliese, Pugliese is an accomplished author and speaker.
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Written by Rachael Pontillo
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 There is a great amount of confusion regarding the use of sunscreen. There is a myriad of different products on the market with SPF (sun protection factor) values ranging from 2 to over 100. Products claiming they are waterproof; products offering protection from UVA and UVB rays. Furthermore, these products are available in many different price ranges, in many different places: dollar stores, drug stores, department stores, spas and even in some physician’s offices. All of these factors make it difficult for consumers to know which sunscreen to buy, how much and how often to apply it, and how long they can stay out in the sun while wearing it.
For example, is it better to buy the SPF 100+ waterproof broad spectrum product from the local pharmacy for $9.99? Or is it better to purchase the organic SPF 20 tinted moisturizer with antioxidants and peptides for $65 at the spa? Do higher SPFs mean better protection, or does a higher price tag from a trusted professional mean a higher quality and a more effective product? Along the same lines, how are aestheticians and spa owners supposed to make the decision of which sun protection products to recommend to their clients and carry for retail sale?
New Sunscreen Testing And Labeling Regulations
In June of 2011, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) announced that starting in the summer of 2012, sunscreen products will have to undergo different tests to determine how they will be allowed to be labeled and marketed. Prior to this announcement, there had not been any parameters regarding what kind of claims manufacturers could make, what buzz words they could print on their labels, or how they could market their products in 33 years.
Think about that: Thirty-three years ago, most people thought of “sun care” as oiling up with baby oil and using those wacky foil reflectors to get as tan as possible. Sunscreens only offered SPF (UVB) protection, because people wanted to tan, but did not want to burn. Even so, it was rare to see a sunscreen product with anything higher than an SPF 15. Between then and now, sunscreen manufacturers did not have many rules regarding marketing, labeling and making certain claims about their products’ functionality and efficacy.
Times Have Changed
We have now what we did not have back then: Scientific evidence that overexposure to UVA and UVB rays cause skin cancer and are responsible for the majority of how the skin ages. The new FDA guidelines will make sure that the different claims made by manufacturers undergo thorough and standard tests, and that the products are labeled accordingly.
I recently had the opportunity to learn about these new guidelines during my interview with Timothy J. Turnham, the executive director of the Melanoma Research Foundation (MRF). Turnham is very pleased with the new guidelines, feels that they are solid, and that the laws are finally catching up to all of the information science has uncovered.
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Written by Jenny Hogan and Lauren Gartland
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 Work burnout is very common in the beauty industry and spa and bodywork professionals often experience it. Burnout can take the form of irritation, fatigue, apathy, lack of interest in the day’s work or even in physical illness. Aestheticians and massage therapists have physically and energetically challenging jobs, where daily client work can often become draining. Owners and managers face a special challenge in fending off burnout, as they wear so many hats in the course of a day. Spa owners are working long days with little relief, running their business while often still working in the treatment room. Owners typically do not even draw a paycheck for themselves. However when owners have a concrete plan for success, their entire spa team can begin working together to ensure the growth of the business. In an ideal world, the business would generate profit without any of the spa owner’s revenue.
Burnout is just the beginning to building a new foundation and vision for work or life. From being burnt out, you can rise from the ashes to start again. The first step is simply to ask what your life could look like, if you allowed yourself to change it. Burnout lets out powerful emotions of fear, anger, sadness, jealousy and regret. Use those strong feelings to ignite your passion for beginning again. Always look within. Do not expect your boss, co-workers, friends, family or significant other to relieve your burnout. Set other people free and take responsibility yourself, ultimately putting you in control of your own future. Inspiration is everywhere and once you start looking for it you will recognize it around every turn.
Believe In Change
Taking the most important step towards change is often the hardest – simply believing that you can do it. Sometimes our biggest obstacle to overcoming challenges and reaching our goals is simply our belief in ourselves and our abilities. Consider this: in 1954 in Oxford, England, Roger Bannister became the first man to break the four minute mile. Doctors said it was physically impossible. Yet once he broke that record and the world saw that it was actually possible. Within 45 days, 16 other runners had also broken it. Once the belief was there, others soon overcame the obstacle. In my training seminars and coaching sessions, the most valuable lesson for salon and spa professionals may simply be that once you believe in yourself, you can achieve any goal – once you take action.
To begin your transformation, create a vision statement for your life. Write down in very precise language your ideal day and the type of business you desire. Include details! Exactly how much money do you want to earn? Often, spa professionals do not yet see the true potential of how much they are capable of earning or they may have the subconscious belief that they are not worth it. Aim high – with the goal of doubling your income, or specifically to earn $100,000 or more. By using professional spa systems, creating a business plan and executing it, monetary goals become very real and attainable.
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Written by Louis Silberman
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 It is no secret that winter’s colder temperatures and dreary days can affect our moods. You have probably heard the term “the winter blahs” and maybe you are experiencing them right now. On the other hand, maybe what you are feeling is not actually connected to the weather at all. Maybe it is something that statistics say affects 77 percent of working Americans at one time or another – career burnout.
In the aesthetic business, burnout can make you feel lethargic, reduce your productivity, and make you want to throw in the towel on procedures you once enjoyed and looked forward to doing. If this is the case and you find yourself dreading going to work, not feeling excited about providing treatments, and not actively engaging your clients, you are likely suffering from burnout. While it can be tough to get out of this rut, it can be done. It will take some work, but you have the ability to reclaim your passion for skin care, customer service, and the aesthetics industry. Instead of giving your customer a makeover, you are going to give your career a makeover!
Common Causes of Burnout
Boredom and repetition are the “terrible two” factors when it comes to feeling burnt out on the job. They are often the main culprits behind a loss of motivation and enthusiasm at work. Take a look at your appointment calendar. Are you doing facial after facial after facial? While a facial is a wonderful staple of any aesthetic practice, you may start to feel like you are working on an assembly line.
Many people who suffer from burnout have held their current job for a number of years and feel like they have mastered their profession. They have grown tired of the daily tasks associated with work, and because of that, they often slide by doing the bare minimum. This creates a vicious cycle that deepens the rut in which a worker is stuck.
External factors can also contribute to burnout. The 5,000 year old Chinese philosophy of Feng Shui says that we are intimately connected with the spaces in which we live and work, and that our surroundings constantly have an impact on us whether we are aware of it or not. A lackluster workspace can have the same effect as a cold, rainy day – creating those “blah” feelings that make it hard to get through the day.
Steps to Reclaim Your Passion
Getting your mojo back is not always easy; however, you can accomplish it with some effort, persistence and creativity. One of the best ways to reclaim your passion for your career is to rebrand your services. Think of new and exciting ways to promote the beauty-enhancing treatments you provide.
For example, are there services you offer that clients do not gravitate towards or are reluctant to try, so you hardly every perform them? You may be able to change that by presenting those services in a different way. Focus on the benefits of a treatment, not the treatment itself. Instead of offering a “deep chemical peel,” offer a “turn back the clock treatment that reduces wrinkles and age spots.”
This business is all about the amazing results we are able to help people achieve on a daily basis. If you can return your focus to that, you will likely reignite your passion for the skin care industry. One of the best ways to get excited about the latest procedures is to experience them yourself and share the results with your clients. Many aesthetic professionals maintain their enthusiasm by being a walking example of the latest treatments. Tell your client about your experience and all the positive results.
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Written by Marissa Stauffer
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 Why did you want to become an aesthetician? What was it about this industry that hooked you and drew you into the exciting world of skin care? There are many reasons to love what we do. The key is to remember them when we need a pick-me-up. Whether it be a client who has completely sucked out all our positive energy, a disagreement with a co-worker, or a couple of disappointing paychecks — we all have times that we question why we do what we do and if, in the end, it is really enough for us anymore. The good news: There is always hope.
Realism
Be honest … really, really honest. These past couple years have been a little rough for most of us. Even for those with a rock solid clientele, we have had to work harder than ever before to keep those clients coming in and make it happen for ourselves. For those without a solid base of regulars, it has been even more challenging. I personally went from building a clientele in one state, moving to another into a teaching job, and then back in the field struggling to stay above water. I personally know what it is like to feel that frustration and ask myself “Is this enough for me?”
We are all well aware of our economic state in this country. There is nothing we can do to change that. We can, however, start being real with ourselves and others. When we are honest and face reality, we can then make plans for the future. It is ok to admit that you have questioned your job and to be honest with a person thinking of joining the field. Tell them of all the amazing ways aestheticians can help people, all the cool things we are able to do, all the avenues you can venture down. But, please also tell them how hard they need to work to market themselves. Let them know it requires hard work and complete dedication to making it happen in our industry.
Do not get me wrong, I could not be more passionate about what I do. Everyone who knows me knows that I can speak about skin care, products and theories until your ears bleed. However, they also know that I am as honest as it comes and I want everyone to always make an informed decision for themselves about what is best. As a former educator, I can tell you first-hand the students of today have a lot of misconceptions about what their life as an aesthetician will be like, especially that first year or two. We need aestheticians who are willing to put forth an effort to continue making strides in research, marketing, education and much more. So how do we keep ourselves motivated and positive?
Have Multiple Interests
Feeling like you are in a rut? It happens! We cannot help but feel like our lives (at home and work) get very monotonous at times. This is often when we ponder and ask ourselves “Why am I an aesthetician?” It is hard to picture yourself completely changing fields and not doing what you have loved for so long, but something has to give, right? Learn something new, or add something new to your menu that you already know how to do. This can mean minor or major changes, such as going back to school. I know many aestheticians who have decided to add hair styling or nail design to their repertoire. This is an amazing way to keep your existing clients coming back more frequently and add new clients to your day. When I started doing hair again, the bump in my check was well worth facing the fear of something new. It is also a boost to feel excited again about something I can learn more about.
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In the Magazine 
