Those who know Jan Marini refer to her as a visionary. While Jan might agree in principle, she sees this characterization as both a strength and a weakness. She envies those who are able to savor the moment. Where others view life in snapshots that capture real time, Jan sees broad borderless landscapes and endless possibilities. She does not see a product, she sees a business and in that same instance her mind is flooded with the business plan and all the accompanying details. Even when she is not envisioning empires, she is never satisfied with the status quo.
Given her background, perhaps this is an understandable if not necessary survival tool. Jan’s mother, Florence, was a single mom of three boys in an era when divorce carried a major stigma. Florence remarried and unexpectedly gave birth to Jan late in life. The family struggled to live a very meager existence. Her father died when she was eight years old and the family was thrust into poverty. Florence worked only menial jobs and food was often scarce. It was no wonder that Jan viewed her world not as it was, but as it might be, and that she softened the bleak reality by envisioning a larger and more optimistic scenario brimming with potential. Because of her early circumstances, Jan is adamant that in order to succeed you must be tenacious, doggedly determined, and completely focused on the ultimate goal.
Jan describes herself as a product researcher. “Back in the early days I was considered a product ingredient expert. I lectured to medical professionals, skin care professionals, and consumers about how ingredients really performed and what they could realistically expect to provide.” She also did talk radio and T.V., because as she puts it, “consumers love to hear about ingredients and whether their products really work. It is a popular topic that lends itself to talk shows.”
When you hear Jan speak about skin care ingredients and common skin conditions, it is always with passion and conviction. The intense passion for her work and research is always in the forefront. “I am blessed to have a career that enables me to develop so many areas that hold interest for me,” says Jan. “I can use my creative marketing skills, my strategic expertise, my writing skills, and my passion for research.” She ponders for a moment and then adds, “I love everything I do, but education is critical. Sharing new medical data and technological advances is exhilarating. Plus, in the end I have been able to positively impact so many lives, by developing topical agents that address many common skin conditions. I can’t imagine a more interesting or rewarding vocation.”
As Jan continued her lecturing she began to form associations with researchers, scientists, and physicians globally. Over time her focus turned toward research and development. “We have barely begun to ‘scratch the surface’ in regard to technologies that can benefit aging skin, acne,
rosacea, and skin discoloration.” There is that tinge of excitement and passion in her voice. “New technology is rapidly emerging. Twenty-five years ago the prevailing theory was that you couldn’t alter skin aging, for example, via topical agents. Now we are able to stimulate collagen, influence gene expression, and change inflammatory responses.”
What I am curious to know is her impetus for developing a particular product. She is quick to answer. “I am no different from anyone else. I want flawless, healthy, hopefully youthful looking skin. I look in the mirror and see the same imperfections as we all do. I don’t want ‘hope in a jar,’ I want something that provides results.”
Perhaps that is the key to Jan’s phenomenal product development record. If you have skin issues and desperately want to find an answer, you are more determined to find a solution. Jan seems to have a sixth sense for finding unique and effective solutions. She was a glycolic acid pioneer in the 1980s long before the ingredient was available in products commercially. She introduced the first ascorbic acid based vitamin C product into the U.S. and later she was the first to market a more stabilized form of vitamin C, known as lipid soluble C or ascorbyl palmitate, along with a neuro transmitter factor. Other firsts have included Transforming Growth Factor Beta 1 (TGF beta-1), the stabilized combination of glycolic, salicylic, and azaleic acids; Interferon Alpha 2-b; Thymosin beta 4; microscopic sponges for oil control; an anti-aging nutritional supplement containing an absorbable form of hyaluronic acid; a number of proprietary peptide concentrations; the combination of peptide and retinol; the world’s first Prostaglandin eyelash product; and finally a next generation non-prostaglandin eyelash product.
Jan holds numerous patents and patents pending. However, it is the notorious eyelash product that garnered both controversy and worldwide acclaim. “It was a time of huge growth, and also a time that was unbelievably challenging and even discouraging.” Ever the optimist, she recounts, “We were covered on over 500 television programs, over 1,000 print publications, and the company was profiled in the Wall Street Journal twice. You can’t buy that type of publicity.” Jan believes that adversity often spurs even greater achievements. Hence her next generation in lash products was another breakthrough that she believes is even more effective than her original formulations. Through the challenge of the controversy she found new resiliency and strength… “The most touching and dear element for me was the outpouring of support from our resellers. I had phone calls, notes from physicians, calls from celebrities, and offers from luminaries who were willing to assist and support in any way possible. I will feel forever grateful and blessed.”
Jan offers that being “first” has definite advantages. But, she counters, “You also are the first to get shot at when you’re breaking new ground.” Nevertheless, she has always been in the forefront and not just in new product development. Her innovation and spirit is even more evident in how she approaches business. Back in the 1989 to 1990 time frame, Jan literally launched a whole new business model. “I didn’t want to be measured by someone else’s success. I wanted to create a new business category where I could be my own
measuring stick.”
The rest is history. Jan forged ferociously into the physician market when she financed and brought to market the product lines M.D. Formulations and M.D. Forte. She was met with resistance
and even contempt. “Physicians were mostly insulted at the concept of dispensing skin care from their practice,” she recounts. But, she saw it as an honorable and even necessary physician business dimension. As Jan sees it, “surgical procedures were rapidly evolving. Dermatology was rapidly changing. Managed health care was poised to change the entire medical system. Finally, topical skin care was gaining medical credibility and endorsement.” She saw these elements as the basis for an industry segment of unprecedented growth and enormous revenue potential. Here was the visionary at work again.
But, Jan did not see it as a grandiose idea. For her, it was simply a moment of clarity and truth. “Why wouldn’t the very practitioners who treat skin be ideally suited to recommend the appropriate products?” and she adds, “Why wouldn’t skin care professionals and physicians work together to provide the most effective care and guidance?” She envisioned skin care products being sold routinely in physicians’ offices and saw the burgeoning medical spa business at a time when medical associations were
cautioning doctors that selling skin care was probably unethical. Indeed, as physicians warmed to the concept, she became a popular and respected speaker and eventually presented at medical universities, medical conferences, and skin care conferences. The requests for her to speak even came from outside the U.S., where she spoke at both the Royal Society of Medicine and the British Association of Medicine in London. Recalling her farthest venue, Jan said “I spoke at a medical conference in Salvador Bahia, Brazil. It took 23 hours to travel there. When I spoke, the physician audience wore headphones and I was simultaneously translated. That was an interesting experience.”
Jan believes that even though physician based skin care is commonplace today, the revolution is just beginning. “We are seeing a much more sophisticated and demanding consumer. Skin care buying habits are continuing to shift. There has never been a better time to be a skin care professional.” One thing that she did not foresee was the impact her products would have in the celebrity community. She is still a bit surprised with the many devoted luminaries that include names such as Cher, Naomi Watts, Anne Hathaway, and Kyra Sedgwick. She actually looks uncomfortable if not surprised at the thought that Jan Marini herself has become somewhat of
a celebrity within the film and television world. Jan shakes her head as if in disbelief. “All I can say is that, no matter who you are or how prominent you may be, everyone wants beautiful skin.”
When I asked her what advice she would offer our readers, she said, “Business is tricky. It is not always about having the best product (although it certainly helps). Much of the time, it is a combination of circumstances, timing, and the willingness to forge a different and sometimes solitary path regardless of possible criticism or obstacles. Also, never underestimate the value of having loyal, trustworthy, and bright individuals in your organization."
She has one more thing to add about the evolving skin care scene and it concerns the Internet. “The Internet may provide a tremendous element of convenience, but it also causes a backlash. The consumer craves personal attention and genuine, sincere, and knowledgeable advice. They do not get that from the Internet. You, the skin care professional, have an immense opportunity to touch the lives of individuals in countless ways.”
Jan has made me promise something. She has asked that I not summarize this article on some trite or “cute” note. Therefore let me first quote one of her favorite sayings, “No one can do it for you, but you don’t have to do it alone,” and then, speaks in glowing and thankful terms about the many talented people in her company. Lastly, she wants everyone to know what really motivates her and what defines everything she has accomplished or ever will hope to achieve (and by the way, she is nowhere near stopping). It is her husband Reed Anderson that receives the credit. She sees Reed as the stalwart support system beneath her adventurous soul and her greatest fan. “He is incredibly smart, funny, loving and affectionate. I absolutely adore him. He is not perfect; but, he is the perfect man for me.”

What I truly love about the skin care profession is not necessarily the “how” of treatments, products, and results; but the “why”. This is probably why I am so passionate about teaching. It is not enough in our business to simply be able to make recommendations and deliver visible results to our client’s skin, if we do not know precisely why we are capable of achieving such results.
As consumers place increasingly more confidence in our hands regarding meeting their skin needs and concerns, our professional responsibility to meet those needs has grown, requiring aestheticians to have a deep understanding of how those concerns even came to be. That being said, one of the most influential contributing factors to the condition of the skin, at many different ages, is fluctuations in hormones.
The human body has two types of glands, exocrine glands and endocrine glands. Exocrine glands secrete material out of the duct and onto the surface of the body (I like to think of them as exiting), such as salivary glands, sudoriferous glands, and sebaceous glands. Endocrine glands are composed of a special group of cells that form ductless glands, and secrete substances directly into the bloodstream; these substances are know as hormones.

The Endocrine System

The major endocrine glands in the human body are the pituitary gland, pineal gland, thymus, thyroid, adrenal glands, ,-and pancreas. Let us take a brief look at the role of each one.
The pituitary gland is a small pea size gland located at the base of the brain, often referred to as the “Master Gland”. Hormones secreted by this gland function to regulate homeostasis and stimulate other endocrine glands. The pituitary hormones help control growth, blood pressure, uterine contractions during childbirth and the formation of breast milk, metabolism, water regulation in the body and kidneys, the functioning of sex organs in males and females, temperature regulation, and most importantly, the production of growth hormone.

The pineal gland is a small gland shaped like a tiny pine cone, and is located near the center of the brain, between the two hemispheres. Often referred to as the “third eye”, the pineal gland produces melatonin – a hormone that affects an individual’s sleep patterns, as well as alterations in seasonal functions. The production of melatonin is stimulated by darkness and inhibited by light. Specialized photosensitive
cells in the retina detect light and directly signal the suprachiasmatic nucleus (SCN), a tiny region in the brain that controls circadian rhythms; the body’s natural functioning within a 24 hour cycle. The human pineal gland grows in size only until about one to two years of age, and then remains the same throughout life.
The thymus gland lies just beneath the top of the breastbone and is a specialized organ in the immune system. The thymus is responsible for processing a type of white
blood cell called a T-Cell (hence the “T” for thymus). T-lymphocytes are known to regulate cellular immunity by assisting other cells in recognizing and destroying foreign substances such as bacteria, viruses, and even abnormal cell growth such as cancer.
The thyroid gland is one of the largest endocrine glands in the body. It is located in the center of the neck and is also known as the “Adam’s Apple.” This gland controls the rate at which the body uses energy, produces proteins, and controls the body’s sensitivity level to other hormones. The function of the thyroid gland depends upon the production of its’ two primary hormones, thyroxin (T4) and triiodothyronine (T3). These two hormones regulate the rate of metabolism, calcium levels, and affect the function and growth of many other body systems. The thyroid gland is controlled by the hypothalamus and pituitary.
The adrenal glands are triangular shaped glands found on top of the kidneys. Their main function is the release of hormones associated with stress by means of adrenaline, cortisol, and corticosteroids. Each gland is separated into two sections, the cortex and the medulla. The cortex mainly produces cortisol, as well as aldosterone and androgens; while the medulla primarily produces epinephrine (adrenaline) and norepinephrine. The adrenal glands also stimulate fat breakdown in adipose tissue, inhibit protein synthesis, and provide both an immunosuppressive and anti-inflammatory role.
Last, but certainly not least, the pancreas. The pancreas acts as both an endocrine and exocrine gland. For the purpose of this article, I will focus on its endocrine function of producing key hormones, by means of the Islets of Langerhan; such as insulin, glucagon (which raises blood glucose levels, having an opposite effect from insulin), and somatostatin ( a peptide hormone that affects cell proliferation and neurotransmissions).

External Hormonal Stimulators and Their Relationship to the Skin

At this point you may be wondering what any of this has to do with the skin. Research has shown that hormones and hormonal changes have the greatest impact on the health of the skin, and most notably, on the aging process. There are multiple factors that influence hormonal changes, but there are six that are the most prominent and frequent; stress, pregnancy, menopause, a menstrual cycle, oral contraceptives, illness, and/or disease.
Knowledge of these factors and of their potential influences on the skin are terrific “red flags” acquired during the consultation process, and from the consultation form. Understanding that most of these factors are beyond our scope of practice, and are even beyond individual control allows us to improve the skin, knowing that permanent improvement is unlikely until the external factor is negated. In this section, we will look at each of the most common external factors that affect hormones.

A Closer Look at Key Hormones

Regardless of the various external and hereditary factors that may influence an individual's specific hormonal functioning, there are three primary hormones that have the greatest influence on the condition of the skin; estrogen, thyroxin, and androgens (testosterone). Keep in mind that while there certainly are a multitude of various hormones, these three are the most prominent, influential, and most easily fluctuated. Each of these common hormones interestingly can have an effect on both the skin as well as the hair.
Estrogen is important for maintaining collagen and skin moisture by increasing mucopolysaccharides and hyaluronic acid and enhancing the skin's barrier function. It has also been noted that estrogen plays a role in promoting cutaneous wound healing. Estrogen-deprived skin; thins, loses collagen, and slows down the cell renewal process. Estrogen also plays a role in maintaining a full, healthy head of hair by encouraging hair to stay in its growing phase (anagen hair). This is easily recognized in the significant thickening of hair towards the end of many pregnancies. Likewise, when estrogen levels take a significant plunge, such as during and after menopause, the lower estrogen level allows the scalp hair to grow closer to the falling out stage (telogen hair), resulting in finer, more sparse hair. Unfortunately, that same drop in estrogen has the opposite effect on facial hair, which tends to increase and thicken most likely as a result of higher testosterone levels.
Thyroxin, produced by the thyroid gland, also has an influence on the appearance of the skin. Excess production of thyroxin results in a warm, smooth, sweaty, flushed skin appearance; whereas an under-activity of thyroxin produces a dry, coarse, thickening of skin with reduced ability to sweat.
Androgens, the male hormones, most specifically, testosterone, play a key role in the production of sebum in the skin. The oil glands of the skin are in part controlled by the level and activity of the hormone testosterone by having a direct impact on the stimulation of the sebaceous glands. This is seen in conditions such as acne; as well as polycystic ovary syndrome, which produce some elevation in testosterone, resulting in increased facial hair, irregular periods, and acne.

Hormone Replacement Therapy

Hormone replacement therapy (HRT) has been used for several decades to combat the effects of menopause and replenish the estrogen levels that are depleted. HRT is capable of promoting a fuller-looking skin by minimizing the loss of subcutaneous fat, increasing hydration, and increasing the skins’ own natural moisturizing factors.

The Role of the Aesthetician

We are not doctors, we cannot diagnose... but, we can determine skin conditions based upon what we do know. One of the most difficult challenges that skin care professionals have is the demand to prevent and improve the effects of the aging process, pigmentation, loss of firmness, and loss of hydration. Aside from UV exposure, hormonal changes are the most common cause of the effects of the aging process.
Obtaining pertinent information during the consultation process is the key to establishing a treatment plan and protocol. This also allows for clear communication with the client. Being able to clearly explain the physiological influence of altered hormones on the visible appearance of the skin, will help the client understand the difficulty in the task of improving such appearance. It most certainly does not mean that our professional hands are tied, but the likelihood of making permanent improvements while the hormones are still fluctuating, is minimal. Combinations of professional treatments and effective home care will make instant temporary improvements, but will need to be continued in order to maintain such improvements.
The human body and the skin are complicated, yet fascinating... and as professional aestheticians we have the ability and the gift to improve the way our clients look and feel about themselves. Not only is this powerful, but an honor as well. Clients place their trust and their appearance in our hands, where we must rely upon education and knowledge to deliver results and establish satisfied clients for life.
 

Michelle D’Allaird is a New York State licensed aesthetician and International CIDESCO Diplomat. She is the owner of the Aesthetic Science Institute aesthetic schools in Syracuse and Latham, N.Y. She is a consultant and educator for international cosmetic companies around the world. D’Allaird is a contributing author to major industry trade magazines, as well as a host and speaker for International Congress of Esthetics & Spa conferences in Miami, Philadelphia, Dallas, and Long Beach. She is also a co-author of Salon Fundamentals aesthetic textbook. Her expertise lies in education and curriculum development for aesthetic, medical, and laser courses.