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10 Things About...Cellulite

Written by Jeri Ross, M.P.H.

There is no magic cure or quick fix for cellulite. Clients would like to get rid of the lumpy, bumpy appearance of cellulite with minimal time and effort, however, smoothing out the dimples is best achieved by adhering to a three-pronged plan of professional spa treatments, homecare products, and a healthy lifestyle regimen. Professionals should educate themselves about the causes of cellulite and the most effective solutions for prevention, reduction, and maintenance in order to position themselves as an expert that clients can trust.

Taking a Closer Look at the Aesthetic Concerns of the Periorbital Region

Written by Ahmed Abdullah, M.D., F.A.C.S., F.I.C.S.
Taking a Closer Look at the Aesthetic Concerns of the Periorbital Region

It is said that the eyes provide a window to the soul, but for those who suffer from aesthetic conditions in this area, the view their eyes offer may be a bit misleading. Clients often complain that puffy lower eyelids, dark undereye circles, and excessive creasing in the eye area give the impression that they are tired or stressed out when, in reality, these problems usually have little to do with such factors.

Skin Cancer 101: A review of the 3 most common skin cancers

Written by Dana Canuso, podiatric surgeon and founder of Dr. Canuso Skincare

It is estimated that one American dies every hour from skin cancer.1 Even though the rate of many other common cancers is falling, the incidence of melanoma continues to increase significantly and at a faster rate than any of the seven most common cancers.2 Each year there are more new cases of skin cancer than the combined incidence of breast, prostate, lung, and colon cancers.3

Observance of Wound Healing in the Aesthetic Setting

Written by Erin Madigan-Fleck, N.M.D., C.N.H.P., L.M.C.
Observance of Wound Healing in the Aesthetic Setting

The skin periodically encounters a variety of incursions and, within its extraordinary capacity for surveillance, is able to initiate its defense systems at a moment’s notice to fight infection and initiate healing. The intricate relationship that the skin has with the body represents a complex network of communication via the entire integumentary structure: nervous system (neurons for sensory function), immune system (healing response and defenses), circulatory system (surface capillaries and oxygenation), and the digestive system. The digestive system has both the ability and capacity to provide sustenance and, as such, represents the threshold of the skin’s potential to initiate nutrition-transcription factors for healing.

Hyperpigmentation: Prevention, Maintenance, Reversal

As one of the most common skin conditions, hyperpigmentation affects millions of people and has a variety of causes and symptoms. While many hyperpigmentation disorders are harmless, some can be cause for concern. It is important to understand the different symptoms and treatments available in order to make the most informed decisions regarding the client’s skin health. Many hyperpigmentation disorders can be avoided when proper preventative measures are taken, but for those clients that live with skin conditions ranging from darkened patches to scaly lesions, the need for a safe, effective treatment is of the utmost importance. While all of the problems of hyperpigmentation have not been solved, cosmetic scientists are taking steps to formulate a product that will deliver serious effectiveness, not serious side effects.

Identifying and Treating Rosacea

Written by Jennifer Linder, M.D.
Identifying and  Treating Rosacea

Rosacea has long been a frustrating condition for both skin care professionals and those who suffer from the condition. While its cause is not fully understood, it is widely accepted that inflammation plays a primary role.

A Look at Rosacea

Written by Gina Charles, D.O.
A Look at Rosacea

Rosacea is a common, chronic skin disorder that primarily affects the face. It is characterized by persistent symmetrical flushing and redness to the central face, including the forehead, nose, cheeks, and chin. Rosacea is more common in people ages 30 to 50 and fair-skinned women. It less often effects men and children. Despite its prevalence, rosacea is often mistaken for rosy cheeks, sunburn, or acne, based on its classic appearance. This disorder is considered relapsing due to its come and go nature – a person will have painful-looking facial inflammation followed by calm periods where their skin appears clearer. During periods where a flare up is not present, the skin may remain red (persistent erythema). This disorder is divided into four main subtypes based of the clinical appearance of the symptoms: erythematotelangiectatic, papulopustular, phymatous, and ocular rosacea.

Ethnic Skin Conditions

Written by Linda Gulla, L.E.
Ethnic Skin Conditions

When treating skin conditions, it is essential for the skin care professional to have a thorough understanding of ethnicity and predisposed factors when assessing the client during the initial consultation, treating skin conditions, and determining treatment protocol.

The Red Face of Rosacea Classifying and Treating Rosacea

Many clients may walk through an aesthetician’s door with common facial manifestations, often agonizing over what once was clear skin that has now erupted into inexplicable redness, dryness, skin thickening, and even bumps and pimples that resemble acne. While these symptoms may be a sign of a variety of skin conditions, they may also be characteristic of the widespread, yet poorly understood facial disorder known as rosacea, a chronic skin disease now estimated to affect more than 16 million Americans, many of whom do not know they have it. Knowing how to spot the potential signs and symptoms of this medical disorder before serving a client could be the difference between having a repeat customer and exacerbating their condition.

The Emotional Aspect of Treating Skin Conditions

Written by Michelle D’Allaird, L.E.
The Emotional Aspect of Treating Skin Conditions

As aestheticians, we must understand that we do not treat skin conditions. Skin conditions are treated by those with an M.D. after their name. As skin care professionals, it is our job to enhance the health of the skin with our products and services. In order to do this, what we do in the treatment room is all about the customer and their emotions. We are taught in aesthetics school that our emotions are to be checked at the door.

The Swimsuit Curse: Cellulite

Written by Ottmar Stubler, L.E.
The Swimsuit Curse: Cellulite

European women have been benefiting from cellulite treatments for years. They pay particular attention to the deposits on the upper thigh area which they call culottes de cheval. Translated literally from French, it means “riding breeches.” The French are mainly credited with the discovery of cellulite; however the distinction actually belongs to the Swedes. Prominent Swedish doctors, masseurs, and gymnasts understood the connection between body appearance and body health towards the end of the 19th century. They discovered the presence of lumpy, node-like formations just under the skin which they treated with a special method of massage, diet, and exercise. Among the various names they gave these lumpy masses were cellulite, panniculite, and myocellulite. Always zealous to maintain their leadership in the field of beauty, the French quickly adopted the name cellulite. The word is a combination of the French word for “cell” and the suffix “-ite,” meaning disease.

Skin Concerns of Diabetics in the Spa

With the healthy growth of aesthetic services, all sorts of clients walk into the spa. Clients with medical conditions, who previously did not consider spa treatments now make spa visits a routine part of their lifestyle. As responsible professionals, we need to be aware of the types of clients that visit our facility and learn how our services may affect their well-being. In particular, we need to be prepared to best serve our diabetic clients. There are approximately 25 million diabetics (about one in 10 people) in the U.S. and the number is increasing. It is likely that your clients already include people with diabetes.

Your Skin ... A window to Your Health

We have always heard that a glowing complexion is not only a sign of youth but a reflection of your overall health and well-being.

Pale skin has been associated with iron deficiency. Dark circles under your eyes may imply you are tired, but also that you suffer from allergies. Vertical lines at the inner corners of the eyebrows can suggest liver congestion. Dryness and lines around the mouth can be linked to fertility concerns. Redness might indicate too much sugar or processed foods in your diet. Certain conditions of the nails might indicate health conditions that need serious attention.

The Science of Prevention

Skin cancer is the most common cancer in the U.S. with more than two million Americans diagnosed annually. Basal cell carcinoma and squamous cell carcinoma make up the majority of these cases. The third type, melanoma, arises from pigment producing cells called melanocytes. The ability to spread widely to other parts of the body is a unique characteristic of melanoma that the other skin cancers do not readily possess. This characteristic makes melanoma the deadliest, accounting for only four percent of skin cancers but 80 percent of skin cancer-related deaths. The number of new cases of melanoma is increasing steadily and dramatically. In the U.S. alone, the incidence of melanoma has tripled over the past three decades. In 2010, approximately 70,000 new cases were diagnosed.

Primary and Secondary Skin Conditions

As an aesthetician, one of the most important questions you should ask your client is "What are your skin care concerns?" From there you can determine their primary and secondary concerns. These questions are extremely important when establishing a relationship and building trust with the client. They come to you for your expertise; providing them with the ability to voice their skin care concerns. Gradually, trust is built from the open communication between you and the client – allowing them to explain their skin concerns.

Managing Stress Can Help People Improve Their Skin Conditions

As anyone with a chronic, inflammatory skin condition, such as psoriasis, rosacea or acne, knows, dealing with unpredictable flares can cause considerable stress and have a negative effect on a person's overall well-being. Now, an ever-growing body of research shows how the complex link between the skin and the psyche — including the role of stress — affects skin conditions.

At the American Academy of Dermatology's Summer Academy Meeting 2011 in New York, dermatologist and clinical psychologist Richard G. Fried, MD, PhD, FAAD, of Yardley, Pa., discussed the skin-psyche connection and how incorporating various stress-management techniques into a dermatologic treatment regimen can help patients with skin conditions feel better physically and emotionally.

Psoriasis Patients Face Higher Than Average Death Risk After a Heart Attack

Research points to need for more aggressive approach to secondary prevention of cardiovascular disease in psoriasis patients.

Heart attack patients with psoriasis are 26 per cent more likely to die from cardiovascular disease, or suffer from recurrent heart attacks or strokes, and are 18 per cent more likely to die from all causes than those without the inflammatory skin disease. That's the key finding of a Danish study published in the September issue of the Journal of Internal Medicine.

Inflammation - An Immune Response

Inflammation – What Does It Mean?
Let us begin by exploring the meaning of the word and what is implied when we speak about the effects of inflammation in the body. Inflammation can be a temporary response to a minor infliction to the skin or it can be a major response to systemic infection or other key assault on the body. This short article is but a portal into a greater exploration that requires further reading and study.

Hormonally Induced Skin Conditions

They are the chemical messengers that control nearly every aspect of the human body. Without hormones, growth and development, metabolism, reproduction, mood control, digestion and other necessary functions would not be possible.Small changes in hormones can cause big changes within the bodyand the skin. Hormonally induced skin conditions, like acne and melasmacan be frustrating, asfluctuations in hormones are unpredictable and often not easily detected, even with medical testing. Knowing the pivotal times in life when hormonal fluctuations are most likely to occur and becoming familiar with the skin conditions influenced by hormonal changes are crucial to successfully controlling hormonally induced skin concerns.

Sugaring for Eczema and Psoriasis

Professional body sugaring continues to demonstrate how multi-beneficial it really is when the correct education is provided for technique and theory. And you should have an opportunity to learn even more once you are certified so that you fully comprehend the variety of treatments applications your salon/spa can offer with it… from hair removal treatment options to “skin conditioning treatments” which you guessed it – includes eczema and psoriasis.

Recognizing skin conditions of Eczema and Psoriasis
Effected areas usually appear very dry, thickened, or scaly. In fair-skinned people, these areas may initially appear reddish and then turn brown. Among darker-skinned people, eczema can affect pigmentation, making the effected area lighter or darker.

National Psoriasis Foundation creates Patient Bill of Rights and Responsibilities

To ensure the 7.5 million Americans living with psoriasis and psoriatic arthritis are fully and fairly treated—and to help patients develop more effective relationships with medical providers—the National Psoriasis Foundation created its Bill of Rights and Responsibilities for People with Psoriasis and Psoriatic Arthritis.
The bill aims to help patients get the care they need by outlining their responsibilities in the health care relationship, and it encourages doctors to take psoriatic disease more seriously and keep informed about treatment options. Read the full Bill of Rights and Responsibilities: www.psoriasis.org/billofrights.

Is Hyperpigmentation The New Wrinkle?

New Treatment from Syneron Medical LTD. Offers a Hydroguinone Alternative.
With the advent of Botox and Dysport women have new peace of mind in the war against wrinkles.  Today, there’s a new enemy in town… hyperpigmentation. Known as age spots, sunspots and ugly discoloration; hyperpigmentation has become the new wrinkle for many.
Until recently, we fought hyperpigmentation with skin bleaching creams (often thinning the skin), chemical peels and laser procedures. Today, Syneron Medical Ltd has created a new topical solution delivering results, erasing signs of hyperpigmentation in 28 days. Enter elure (www.elureskin.com).

Conditions of the Skin

When you hear your skin referred to as problematic, you immediately equate this with a dilemma, complication, troublesome, distressed, obstacle, an inconvenience. We want it instantaneously fixed! Who wants a problem? In fact when your skin is experiencing a "problem," it is a sign that your body is in a healing phase, which is a good thing. The skin is trying to expel waste, bacteria, toxins, or possible negative emotions as an attempt to return the body and skin back health.

In Living Color

Times change, and the world population is becoming increasingly diverse in terms of ethnic identity. This is especially true in the U.S., where people of many ethnicities and the merging of ethnic identities challenge old concepts of classification. Grasping the commonalities and differences between skin conditions common to specific ethnicities is absolutely critical to treating skin in an effective and truly modern way.
But here's the problem: it's difficult to even discuss the ethnicity of skin in correct, appropriately sensitive, and politically correct terms. The traditional language still applied to race — and in fact, the term "race" itself — is deeply rooted in Victorian and colonial social systems. In many cases, these concepts are no longer applicable.

Skin Scavengers

Alcohol, medications, and drugs can affect the skin and create a challenge when an aesthetician is trying to figure out how to treat the client. In aesthetic school, students are taught to always have the client fill out a history sheet for contraindications – especially with hair removal. It is imperative to know if the client is on certain medications such as Retina-A®, Accutane®, Renova™, Tazorac®, Differin®, Azelex®, blood-thinning medications, and recent injectables such as Botox®. Some clients will openly share which medications they are taking on their client history. Other clients may feel embarrassed to reveal their consumption of alcohol or will not be honest about their use of illegal drugs. How can an aesthetician encourage a client to be honest? After all, it is for their own safety and well-being.

Margarita Madness

I have always known that margaritas are not good for the waist line, but being dangerous for the skin I never even imagined. The story begins in the beautiful city of Cabo San Lucas, Mexico. A trip with some friends started out innocently enough; the sun drenched beaches, the 90 degree ocean water, and the margaritas. Oh yes, those margaritas. Who can resist this classic Mexican cocktail in the most beautiful Mexican city?

Rosacea was originally described in exacting detail by one of the most prominent doctors of his time, the English dermatologist Robert William (1757 – 1812) who started one of the first institutions focused on skin diseases. Rosacea is a chronic ‘acne form’ disorder of the facial pilosebaceous units, coupled with an increased reactivity of capillaries to heat, leading to flushing, blushing, ultimately causing a vaso-dilation condition called telangiectasia. Rosacea is an extremely common disease that is underreported and often improperly treated. It progresses slowly in stages and in its early forms, is rarely recognized by skin practitioners and all too often missed by medical professionals.

Change Your Perspective to Change Lives

Gaining a New Perspective
Both modern medicine and spa services have tended to be symptom-based in their approach to disease. Symptom-based approaches are short-term fixes that don’t affect the cause, or necessarily the recurrence, of the problem.
If instead you develop an understanding of the underlying mechanisms of disease, and tune your perspective to eliminating them or protecting the body from them, you have turned a corner and are taking your services to an entirely new level.

Hyperpigmentation - It's Not All Black and White

The Melanocyte
The melanocyte is a cell located within the basal layer of the epidermis. The primary role of this specialized cell is to produce pigment and provide color to the skin. There are approximately 1500 melanocytes per square millimeter in the skin. They produce two types of pigment melanin; Eumelanin, which is a brown/black melanin; and pheomelanin, which is a red/yellow melanin. Our individual skin color is dependent upon the ratio of eumelanin to pheomelanin, and that ratio is dictated primarily by our genetic makeup.

The Ugly Truth of Cellulite

In our aesthetic culture today, the word ‘cellulite’ has come to represent a hideous fat condition of the human body where by we will do just about anything to rid it. The term was first used in the 1920s and began appearing in English language publications around the late 1960s. The earliest reference appeared in Vogue magazine, the prestigious fashion journal. Vogue introduced this new word for ‘fat’ into American society and from then on, controversy has surrounded cellulite for decades whereby medical doctors, scientists, and other professionals cannot agree if this foundation of fat really exists. Many doctors have flatly refused to acknowledge the existence of cellulite and still do despite the overwhelming scientific evidence.

Say Cheese, Please

As industry professionals we can see our treatments make a difference. However, there were so many times when I was performing treatments that I wished I could show the client solid facts that showed a difference.
With the fight against aging showing no signs of slowing down and increased interest in non-invasive aesthetic procedures, skin care professionals are looking for new technologies to satisfy their clients and stay competitive in the industry.

Skin Revision

The modern skin specialist in the medical and aesthetics field are constantly being led to believe by manufacturers that peeling of the skin is the top of the line when it comes to removing wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, or superficial scars. The real truth is; the removal of dead and dying skin cells is only step one in effective skin revision. New skin cells are partially controlled by desmosomes. The proliferation of new skin cells to the surface of the skin has a definite pattern or rhythm.

The Biology of Photodamage

The human organism is constantly exposed to environmental assaults and the most important protective functions are provided by the skin. Chief among the diverse environmental agents, the skin must protect against is the ultraviolet radiation emitted from the sun. Photodamage, the general term referring to the toxicity associated with the cumulative effects of overexposure to UV radiation, is a broad and multifaceted issue. Beginning with biochemical changes and ultimately showing up as clinically visible manifestations from sunburn to photoaging to cancer, comprehension of the mechanisms and the associated preventive and protective measure that can be taken to mitigate photodamage must be an important part of a modern aesthetician’s overall understanding of skin health.

Inflammation: The Common Thread

Problem and solution – if only it were this simple. As skin care professionals, most of the concerns our clients come to us with are multi-dimensional in terms of their origin, and consequently their treatment. As with most things in life, it is almost always necessary to look beneath the surface to determine the underlying cause of a problem.
Although this may seem like a more circuitous approach than treating only what is seen, our investigations can be simplified by the acknowledgement of a resounding theme. Without question, inflammation is a common thread in the contributing factors to many skin conditions. Acne, rosacea, dermatitis; even the signs of aging all have something in common: inflammation.

The course of rosacea is prolonged. Recurrences are common and difficult. Rosacea is a skin in trauma and out of balance. When tissue repairs itself, it requires more amino acids for cell proliferation. Peptides are organic chemical compounds composed of one or more basic amino acid groups and one or more acidic carboxyl groups. Select a peptide product that contains palmitoyl-pentapeptide-3 and other peptides with a low molecular weight in the amino acid chain. Peptides are non-irritating and more stable than vitamin C and Retinol. Not only do peptides have the capability to reduce the inflammation associated with rosacea; they reduce the aging factors that compound rosacea sufferers linked with photo-damaged skin. Peptides must be an integral step in treating rosacea skin.